Somloi Vandor, Harslevelu, 2023 tinar de mirat works with native yeasts and

works with native yeasts and ages the wine for years in old foudres in a thoroughly traditional style

This is Brovia at full throttle

the wine shows a lovely balance of richness and restraint

mineral-driven quality that lingers

Every bottle comes from one barrel

Somloi Vandor, Harslevelu, 2023 tinar de mirat works with native yeasts andSomlo is a lone extinct volcano rising straight out of the flat plains of northwest Hungary, one of the country's smallest and strangest wine regions, and one of the rare places on earth that makes almost nothing but white. Tamas Kis trained in Eger, home of Bull's Blood, before this volcanic butte hooked him for good, and his tiny Somloi Vandor project farms it organically with a minimal intervention hand. This is Harslevelu, an indigenous Hungarian